In preparation

Polo design.

Polo design is being explored for the Clothix catalogue. Read the construction guide or start with an available garment.

Construction guide

Not buildable in Clothix yet. There's no polo pattern in the tool — it's on the roadmap. This page is the construction knowledge, which applies whatever you spec it in.

Pique, and why it isn't just texture

A pique polo takes its name from its fabric. Pique is a double knit with a deliberately raised surface — the small waffle grid you can see on any polo. The texture is a side effect of what it's really for: pique is stable. It doesn't curl at a cut edge, it holds a shape, and it gives a collar something rigid enough to stand.

A polo in single jersey is a physically possible garment and a bad one: the placket ripples, the collar folds over on itself, and the whole thing reads as a t-shirt with buttons. Interlock is the smooth-surface alternative that behaves the same way structurally — use it when you want a polo that reads plain rather than textured.

Working range is 200 to 260 g/m². Below 200 the collar won't stand; above 260 the placket corners get thick.

The placket

A finished opening at the centre front, with buttons. Three ways to build it:

  • Applied placket — a separate strip sewn on. Most visible topstitching, most robust, easiest to get consistent. The usual industrial choice.
  • Self-placket — the front panel is cut with an extension and folded back. Cleaner from the outside, harder to keep even, and it needs the fabric to hold a crease.
  • Half-placket with a separate under-facing — a middle route, common on cheaper polos and where the bottom of the placket is often reinforced with a bar tack rather than a proper box.

Spec the placket length, width, button count, button spacing, buttonhole orientation (vertical or horizontal — they behave differently under strain) and what happens at the bottom of the opening. That last one is where placket samples fail: an unreinforced placket bottom tears.

The collar

Two components that get conflated. The collar is usually a piece of flat-knitted rib, often made on a separate machine with its own finished edges — which is why polo collars have that distinct tipped or striped edge. The collar band is the strip that joins the collar to the neckline.

Three mountings: collar attached directly to the neckline with a taped seam, collar mounted on a separate band, or a band-and-facing construction closer to a woven shirt. Each gives a different stand height and a different price.

Spec collar length, collar height, collar composition and weight, tipping if any, and the mounting method. Then the neckline stretch ratio, same principle as any rib: the collar band is attached with tension, and how much is a number. Recovery matters here more than anywhere, because a polo collar that's lost its recovery is the most visible failure in knitwear.

The rest

Sleeve openings are usually rib cuffs, at a ratio of around 80 to 90 % of the opening — looser than a sweatshirt cuff, because a polo cuff sits on a bicep rather than gripping a wrist. Side vents at the hem are common and need their own finish callout. And a back neck tape, always, because the collar's weight pulls on the shoulder line.

Points of measure

Sixteen to nineteen. Over a t-shirt, a polo adds: placket length, placket width, collar height, collar length, cuff width and height, and vent height if there are vents. Where the tape goes.


Interlock and pique · collars and cuffs · buttons as a trim · the garment catalogue